Rancho Olivos’s
Casey strikes liquid gold
The
first thing you notice about Shannon Casey, as you sit down to talk to her and
she crosses her legs to get comfortable in the chair, is the well-worn spurs
that are casually strapped around her boots as though they have always been
there.
But
once conversation begins, you discover that those boots and spurs replaced
business loafers worn by a television producer, which in turn replaced dance
shoes worn by a performer, which replaced cycling shoes worn by an athlete —
and you begin to understand that Casey’s interests are anything but
one-dimensional.
Mostly,
you realize she is fearless, and that might explain how she ended up in the
olive oil business. Well, maybe it also was her love of food.
“Ever
since I was little, I’ve been an adventurous, food-obsessed person,” Casey
said. “My mother was feeding me raw onions and pickled herring when I was in my
highchair. The adults would put all kinds of stuff in front of me to see if I
would eat it, and I would. I was the first grandkid on my grandfather’s farm in
Airdrie, near Calgary in Canada, so this fascination
with food started in my genes.”
Another
thing she clearly loves is her four-year-old olive oil endeavor, Rancho Olivos, in Santa Ynez. When Casey and her husband, John
Copeland, relocated from studio jobs in Los Angeles, their first inclination
was to plant grapes and pursue a life of winemaking,
but a seminar at UC Davis introduced her to a new interest.
The result was a 400-tree olive orchard and a
rapid education in olive oil production.
Yet
farming, as any farmer could tell you, is never easy, and Casey found out that
producing olive oil would be a long and arduous process — from the onset of the
olive fruit fly that invaded California the same year she planted the orchard
to the lengthy task of pruning each developing tree into shape and waiting
years before getting a harvest that would amount to much.
“If
you want to get in the business, have a lot of patience,” Casey explained.
“Olive trees are very slow growing, and it takes a long time to get a decent
yield. But these trees live for hundreds of years, so you can always leave your
orchard to the next generation and be certain they’ll
do well!”
Like
winemaking, one of the biggest challenges in the olive oil business is deciding
on a particular style. Two key factors influence this decision: which varietals
to plant and when to harvest them. With hundreds of varietals to choose from,
it can be a daunting task.
“I
tasted a lot of olive oils and decided to plant a mix of Italian and Spanish
varietals,” she said. “I fell in love with the Tuscan style but thought that
the pungency wouldn’t appeal to everybody. Arbequina,
a Spanish varietal, was much more buttery and nutty tasting.”
Harvest
time is the second biggest decision. Typically, olives can be harvested anytime
from early November to late January — as they mature from green, grassy, and
pungent to a mellow, buttery black.
“This
year I harvested everything mid-December, but I could have waited another
month. I like my oils really ripe, and the Spanish varietal takes longer to
reach that point. I don’t like it too bitter — more in the middle, more towards
the mellow end,” Casey said.
With
the experience that a few seasons have given her, Casey knows that finding just
the right combination is a moving target.
“Every
year is a little bit different,” she said. “In 2006, the oil was a little bit
herbal. In 2007, it was much more peppery. I just love the oil this year.”
Casey
has learned that selling olive oil involves a lot of customer education. From
impromptu weekend tastings at her farm on Refugio Road, visitors learn the
differences in olive oils and start to understand the health benefits and the
environmentally-friendly aspects of buying local.
“Local
is the new organic. People want to know where their food comes from; when you
buy local, it’s easier on the environment. You’re not using as much fossil
fuels in transportation and packaging,” she said. “Plus, imported oils are
often cut with seed oil and hazelnut oil. They’re just not as good or as good
for you.”
It’s
clear that her biggest satisfaction is creating a product she is proud of.
“People are discovering the difference really fresh olive oil makes and they
use it on everything — dipping, sautéing and drizzling over salads,” Casey
said. “I get a great response to our oil. It’s won awards and people like it.
That’s why we have so many customers that keep coming back.”
To
try it for yourself, you might catch Shannon at her ranch tending the four
horses, five dogs and one barn cat that make up the rest of her family. She’s
always got time to pour a little oil, share a little bread and engage in
conversation about her passion.
Casey’s Tuscan White
Bean Dip
The
fresh flavor of this dip was an award winner at the first Los Olivos Jazz and Olive Festival. It is great with
breadsticks or crackers as part of a casual afternoon antipasto.
1
lb. dried white Tuscan cannellini beans
1
cup Rancho Olivos Extra Virgin Italian-Blend Olive
Oil
2
teaspoons kosher salt
1
tablespoon fresh, minced rosemary
3
cloves fresh garlic, minced
Salt
to taste
Soak
beans overnight and cook according to package directions until soft. In
medium-sized bowl, coarsely mash beans with ¼ cup olive oil, salt, rosemary and
garlic.
Place
1/3 of mixture into food processor and blend until smooth.
Return to bowl and gradually blend in ¾ cup of olive oil
or until it reaches a desired dipping consistency. Season with 1-2 teaspoons of
salt and serve.