When I think about weekend nature excursions, Lompoc is not the first place that comes to mind. Yet to beat the heat, it is a great place to be, since the temperatures run cooler there than anywhere in the Santa Ynez Valley and breezy weather is frequent.
My son had a birthday party to attend in Lompoc on Saturday, and I didn’t want to make the drive there and back twice. Therefore, I decided to make it a day for exploring a new place outside, and soon found myself paying the entry fee to park on the grounds of La Purisima Mission State Historic Park.
Too restless to read signs and walk slowly through historical structures, I took the first trail I could find near the Visitor Center, which happens to be Vista De La Cruz, or Trail of the Cross. It climbs quickly away from the flats to lovely hillside views. The trail is wide enough to walk two or three across, enjoying conversation. My dog and I shared quiet delight over scents and sights we recognized from other hikes: chaparral plants and wild animal tracks. We hardly paused to consider the large wood cross after the .3-mile ascent. Adjoining trails were beckoning.
La Purisima State Historic Park covers 1,800 acres of land, with 25 miles of hiking, biking and equestrian paths. In two hours time, I hiked a handful of trails, all well maintained and lined with sand, clearly defined between thick, brushy vegetation. On a Saturday, not far from the beaten path, I expected to meet up with oodles of people. This wasn’t the case on the sections of trails and service roads I chose to navigate, where I passed only a handful of peaceful people.
Familiar vegetation has undergone significant seasonal changes since the springtime rains. Thistles are tan with brittle stems, and stand like sentinels along the service roads, whispering in the wind. Poison oak leaves have traded most their green for red. Cactus plants are spectacular, showing off buds of pink and blooms of sunshine yellow. Wildflowers are few and far between, except for some persistent, yellow flowers. Most of the purple sage is brown. Yet despite the drying out, the scents are strong and sweet. The many sounds — birds, insects, and wind through eucalyptus trees — are a perfect weekend symphony.
After wandering for an hour, I knew I could lose myself for several days on this property. I was grateful for the $1 purchase I made of a trails map when paying entry fees for the park ($6 daily), since the map made it possible to wander somewhat aimlessly without getting lost, confident that I was not too far from my car, considering the time frame I had. Although the sun was blazing the entire two hours, I was not bothered by the intensity of rays, because wind was sweeping most the heat off my skin. Compared to time spent gardening on my Ballard property, the Lompoc area breeziness was a welcome climate change.
While walking along the Las Zanjas service road, I learned brief historical facts about mission structures, such as details about the Cistern-Aqeduct, which stored water for irrigation, and the Tanning Vats. Cow hides were made into leather through a process that took 6 to 8 months of soaking time, in natural acids from oak barks and leaves. I admire oaks for the habitat they provide to living things, and for the shade they give to me on so many, outdoor occasions. This new, interesting fact made the oak trees even more fascinating than before. I noted their twisted shapes and variety of ages as I walked. The younger trees had abundant, shiny leaves, while the older ones had limbs part decayed and wore tattered cloaks of weathered, gray-green lichen.
Many surprises stick in my mind from my hiking time, such as children holding crawdads near glossy lily pads, explaining ways to catch the glossy-backed, wiggly-eyed beasts. Or the moment when I lost sight of blue sky and white wispy clouds, as quail at my feet flushed up in a buzz of feathery fear.
After walking several miles, I couldn’t tarry to explore the historical sites closer to civilization: mission residences, shop spaces and other places re-made to represent life here in 1800s. I will return another day, perhaps when I’m entertaining friends or relatives from other states (where Spaniards never came to colonize). Or maybe I’ll bring my kids later in September, when park staff and volunteers pull out all stops for three hours of Mission Life Days activities. I usually shy away from such events, where crowds of people congregate in small spaces.
Now I need not fear, since I know a perfect escape route. La Purisima Mission State Historic Park doesn’t end at the blacksmith shop; there are hundreds of acres left, awaiting investigation.
Directions: To get to La Purisima State Historic Park from Buelton, head west on Highway 246 (toward Lompoc) for approximately 18 miles. After passing the La Purisima Mission Golf Course on the right, take the second road on the right. Continue on Purisima Road for about one mile, until you come to the entrance to the park (on the right).
Additional info: Daily hours of operation are from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., with a $6 entry fee (extra $1 for trails/self-guided tour map). Daily tours take place at 1 p.m. Mission Life Days are held a handful of times each year, providing visitors with an opportunity to experience first-hand some of the crafts and industries of the mission communities. This event will be Sept. 18, between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. To learn more about La Purisima State Historic Park, visit the website: http://www.lapurisimamission.org or call (805) 733-3713.
Finding Paradise appears weekly in The Santa Ynez Valley Journal. Contact Christie at Christietarman@gmail.com with comments, ideas or questions.